The Roots of GSB Vegetarian Cuisine in Coastal Karnataka
GSB vegetarian cuisine, a vibrant and wholesome culinary tradition of coastal Karnataka, is deeply rooted in history and culture. Coastal Karnataka, with its lush landscapes and vibrant culture, is a treasure trove of culinary delights. Among the diverse communities that contribute to this rich tapestry is the Gowd Saraswat Brahmins (GSB) community. Known for their diverse and nutritionally dense vegetarian cuisine, the GSBs have a unique culinary tradition that reflects their cultural values and historical journey. Their culinary legacy which dates back to the Brahmavarta era (early Vedic age) has its roots in the survival-driven formulations during their migration from the banks of the mighty Saraswathi river in North West India down to present day Goa and coastal Karnataka, but has since grown beyond these to more delightful, gourmet experiences. Besides the rich flavours and the deep-rooted heritage, there are other features that make the vegetarian cuisine from this community unique and distinct.
Reliance on fresh, locally sourced ingredients
The vegetarian cuisine of the GSB community is characterized by its simplicity and reliance on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, vegetables and fruits unique to the coastal region. Some of the vegetables that are distinct to the GSB cuisine include kantola/teasel gourd, thunder mushrooms, tora leaves, native brinjal (carries a GI tag as Matti Gulla), colocasia leaves, turmeric leaves, malabar spinach, country potato, taro roots and bread fruit. The use of native fruits such as wild jackfruit, kokum, hog plums and bilimbi as souring agents is preferred over tamarind or vinegar that is commonly used in most parts of India, lending a distinct taste. The cuisine heavily draws upon unique spices such as asafoetida gum resin (raw whole Hing) and Sichuan/Chinese pepper. Coconut, a ubiquitous ingredient in coastal Karnataka, plays a crucial role in GSB cooking, adding a rich, creamy texture to many dishes.
Traditional cooking techniques and practices in GSB Vegetarian Cuisine
A traditional GSB kitchen is stacked with a host of vintage equipment, cookware and accessories, chief among them being Pedawan, a traditional steamer, Kanthaane – a wooden coconut scraper, Koithi – sickle with a wooden handle and a curvy black metallic blade used mainly to break coconuts, Tandla Moodo – a spherical rice basket woven using dried rice paddy straw/grass (which can hold up to 40 kg of rice), Addoli – vegetable chopper with a sharp metallic blade and an attached wooden plank, Ragado – large grinding stone and perhaps the most ancient contraption and Shevai Daanthey – the quintessential rice noodles maker. Steaming is a predominant and preferred method of cooking most snacks, sides or sweets and the traditional methods of preserving food mainly include sun-drying vegetables and brining fruits/pickles.
From stem to seed: The ‘Part-to-Whole’ essence in GSB cuisine
A key characteristic of the GSB cuisine is the ‘Part-to-Whole’ concept where every part of the plant starting from its roots, barks and stem to its flowers, seeds and leaves find their way into the cuisine. For example, consider the Banana plant. Its stem, flowers, petals and of course its fruit is used in making various dishes and finally its leaves are used as wrappings to hold Idli batter and/or for serving a traditional fare. Likewise, miniature containers/baskets (to hold batter) are fashioned out of jackfruit leaves for steaming Idlis, while pods, seeds and the inner membranes/tendrils of the jackfruit are used to prepare a number of dry/wet curries, pickles, snacks and sweets.
Foraged flavours: The practice of turning wild finds into delicacies, a Hallmark of GSB Vegetarian Cuisine
The practice of foraging wild edible herbs and fruits and turning them into delectable delicacies is another feature that defines the GSB community cuisine. The GSB community has looked to nature’s bounty since time immemorial as a means for survival, and gradually these wild collectibles became a part and parcel of the community’s everyday diet and the practice is followed even to this day. Tender bamboo shoots, wild jackfruit, bread fruit, tora leaves and the numerous varieties of colocasia leaves are some examples of edible herbs and fruits found in deep wilderness, forested foothills and abandoned fields used to prepare a variety of dishes.
Zero-waste and the art of residual cooking
Residual cooking, which entails using left overs and by-products of the first set of dishes made, to make subsequent dishes, is a hallmark of any GSB kitchen. For instance, left over Idlis are powdered and seasoned to make an instant Usli (Upma), excess water from boiled horse gram/chickpeas finds its way into a nutritious Saaru (Rasam), steamed colocasia pinwheels are repurposed to make a spicy side dish (Pathrade Gashi), unconsumed rice noodles are turned into a delicious coconut pudding (Godi Shevai) and left over rice makes way for a loaded, flavourful dessert (Tandla Kesari). One not only experiences zero-wastage of food and saves times, but also gets to consume a whole new class of food thereby pampering one’s palate.
The vegetarian cuisine of coastal Karnataka is a delightful blend of tradition, flavor, and cultural significance. From the use of fresh, locally sourced ingredients to the preservation of age-old cooking techniques, every aspect of GSB cuisine tells a story of heritage and community. Whether you are a food enthusiast or someone looking to explore new culinary horizons, the vegetarian dishes of the GSB community offer a tantalizing journey into the heart of coastal Karnataka’s culinary heritage.
About the Author:
Radhika Kamath is a freelance consultant with over 15 years of experience in market research, content writing, and corporate strategy. A passionate foodie and experimental cook, she channels her love for culinary heritage into her writing and cooking. Radhika is the author of Vegetarian Delights from the GSB Kitchen, a tribute to the authentic vegetarian cuisine of the Gowd Saraswath Brahmin (GSB) community, featuring cherished recipes from her mother’s 55-year culinary journey. Beyond food, she is a fitness enthusiast, Bollywood dance lover, and active volunteer for causes supporting women and children.
Explore more of Radhika’s travels, recipes, and musings on her blog at radskam.wixsite.com/blog.
